San Diego Review: South Park's Buona Forchetta

Buona Forchetta 3001 Beech St, San Diego, CA 92102

www.buonaforchettasd.com

Who is Sofia? I had decided it was time to finally meet her in the flesh instead of going by all the hearsay. 

There had been so much buzz around Buona Forchetta since it established itself in the heart of South Park that it was hard not to be curious about "Sofia", the infamous pizza oven with a big presence in the small kitchen of this Italian restaurant.

Word around town is that lines are long but the traditional Neopolitan/"Neopolitana" style pizza is worth the wait. Crowds here include pizza obsessed neighbors and long distance visitors, and amongst them quite a few passionate, speaking-with-hands-type Italian families out for a good time and some pizza, pasta e vino.

I had said for months that I would go meet her-Sofia, and with surprisingly much further delay than anticipated, I finally did so. 

The restaurant decor is simple, quaint, and rustic in feel and in style.With plenty of outdoor seating the patio crowd is full of life, group conversations, and laughter. Indoor seating is available for those wanting a more intimate and romantic seat in the house. It also means that you don't mind a slightly tighter squeeze and a longer wait. The inside is worth the wait though especially on a chilly night, and it is definitely charming and cozy in a very European cafe type of way. 

As the restaurant bustles with a number of Italian diners, the outlook for traditional Italian fare feels promising. The menu is short, but as a restaurant who names their pizza oven, one might suspect that they focus on the speciality at hand. Amongst the pizzas, there are also a handful of handmade pastas as well as chalkboard specials of the day.

I ordered the Sofia pizza because after all, it was only logical that the oven's namesake would be their best representation. An Arugula salad with Anchovies and fresh Parmesan also caught my eye on the menu. It seemed to perfectly fit the bill of getting in some greens before the caloric feast that was soon to come. And speaking of carbs, does anyone else find it nearly impossible to turn down housemade pasta? Well, when in Rome- Okay I mean, South Park, what better than to pair a pizza with fresh pasta. A Fettuccine Carbonara to be exact.

As I made my way through the 3 courses, I didn't feel particularly one way or the other in terms of a love or dislike of the dishes that night. The salad to start was dressed perfectly, but from the minute the plate was presented, my heart just sunk a bit. I had ficticiously imagined this salad in my head. It would have plump briny anchovies topped with salty wide curls of nutty Parmesan. And this just wasn't the case as a few anchovies decorated the plate, and thin micro planed shreds of parm got lost amongst the tossed flavorful greens. Despite this moment of my own strange expectation, I enjoyed the dish as the chef intended. And I did actually enjoy it.

After waiting what felt like an eternity between courses and with a wine glass at empty, the Sofia pizza and pasta arrived. I had heard so many great things about what was to come and proving delicious looking to the eyes, my empty stomach was now well starved and my hopes were high with pure excitement to eat everything in sight.

The excitement dwindled after those first few bites, as I didn't feel anything more than just a satisfaction with the act of eating. The crust of the pizza was slightly tough but then in contrast over sauced in the middle leaving limp, unflattering slices which proved to be a challenge to pick up. It ultimately came down to a knife and fork show. The Carbonara was also nothing of grandeur as the dressing of the pasta was salted with a heavy hand. Perhaps even more disappointing were the dense noodles that seemed to lack any bite, making an already heavy dish feel even heavier. I didn't have an opportunity to comment or even wash it down with another glass of wine. I was however asked if I was interested in dessert after I had asked for a box to go. I didn't take the pasta with me.

Perhaps my hopes were too high, or maybe it was just an off night. I wished it to be better, and I also wished that we had more attentive service. With all this said, it wasn't a lost cause. I came hungry and I left full. The environment was charming, and I'd be open to trying it again. After all, often times an atmosphere can make more of the experience than the food itself. We can often wish it wasn't the case, but it's just the truth.

At the end of this story, I met Sofia and I would describe her as nice to know.

San Diego Review: The Hake Kitchen & Bar- La Jolla gets a new gem

The Hake Kitchen & Bar 1250 Prospect St, Ste B10 La Jolla, CA 92037 

thehake.com

Knowing nothing more about The Hake other than the fact that hake is a fish, I assumed a new seafood restaurant was in the works. I was excited and nervous all at the same time with the idea of a newcomer coming into the sleepy little town of La Jolla. What will they do to stand out? Will they survive? Home to only a few true culinary gems such as Whisknladle and Prepkitchen (both a part of the Whisknladle Hospitality group) most new La Jolla restaurants disappear rather quickly, leaving behind those which have stayed for decades, or those which have a tendency to cater toward the mainstream. Of course as a tourist town, this makes sense. But as a local, we are just screaming for something new already!

The Hake Kitchen & Bar opened their doors at the ever- changing restaurant location on Prospect which sits under street level. Having changed hands at least 4 times in the past 10 years that I could recall, and all with different owners and different concepts, I was curious to know what might be different this time around. I am happy to report that there was a lot that was different here, and it was pleasantly different. 

Starting with the service, it was stellar. Polite, attentive, inquisitive, but never overbearing. The dining space itself is the same way: now evoking a nautical open air feel, it's casual, elegant and inviting all at the same time. At first blush, it appeared that someone really knows what they're doing.

Paper menus highlight a variety of Latin inspired dishes. Starting with over a handful of fresh seafood tiraditos from tuna to yellowtail, and moving onto small plate selections such as Grilled Octopus with Olive Oil Poached Potatoes, Tuna Chicharon style tacos, Steamed Mussels with Chorizo Broth, and Shaved Rib Eye with Arugula. There were farm style dishes as well such as a beautiful fresh Burrata Cheese that I adored, which was paired with a plump roasted tomato and a fresh salad of mint, parsley, and basil. And for land grazers there were meatier entrees such as Grilled New York Strip and a Berkshire Pork Chop which looked amazing, But as the name suggests, the seafood really is the star. 

The food was rather simple which allowed the quality ingredients to speak for themselves. The dishes themselves weren't over complicated and nothing felt over thought. It was this genuine simplicity in ingredients coupled with the light, yet appropriate hand in seasoning that made this a really enjoyable meal.

And of course, a great cocktail can make an enjoyable meal even greater. Their cocktail menu offers a handful of twists and nods to traditional cocktails (think French 75, Old Fashioned) as well as a nice variety of Mezcal. With the suggested selection from our server, I found the smooth yet robust smokiness of mezcal to be a great pairing amongst most of the more Latin style dishes of the evening.

After a brief visit from the owner, it came as no surprise to discover that there are several seafood-centric restaurants that fall under their umbrella which are located in Mexico City. With La Jolla as the home of their first restaurant under Tintorera Hospitality in the US, they created their menu by continuing to do what has been proven successful. 

At times throughout the evening, it was almost mind boggling to experience such smooth service, good timing, and well executed dishes from a restaurant this new. Now having only been open for 2 weeks at the time of this visit, one can only hope that the service will continue to remain as impressive and attentive as it was. As if so, I think La Jolla will be very happy to welcome The Hake into the neighborhood for the long haul.

Portland Review: Nothing Common at Clyde Common

Clyde Common, 1014 SW Stark Street, Portland, Oregon 97205

www.clydecommon.com

Where do I begin with Clyde Common? I took a visit over 1 month ago and the fond memory of that dinner still burns on in my mind. It was my first "taste" of Portland, and I have to say if this is what Portland has to offer, pack your travel bags because you owe Portland a visit.

Situated in the historic Ace hotel and next to one of Portland's iconic Stumpps Coffee shops, it feels right in line with "Portlandia." From the minute you walk in from the light drizzle of the late afternoon rain that is so symbolic of Portland, you'll find yourself immediately engulfed in the warmth and buzz of this restaurant. Wooden communal bench seating throughout, an open kitchen of chefs and cooks doing their craft while laughing, bantering, meditating, and a good looking bar stocked with knick knacks, accoutrements, and fine spirits. A chalkboard covered wall filled with scribbles show off the extensive bourbon and whiskey selection. There wasn't much not to love at first glance.

If you didn't already know walking in to Clyde Common that the bar itself is also iconic to Portland's craft cocktail scene, you will quickly realize it. Known as one of the originals to hit the scene bringing Portland's cocktail culture to its nationally acclaimed prowess, this bar still makes everything from scratch; from punchy house made ginger beer to smooth barrel aged bourbons. 

If you love to share, this place is for you. And be it known, some dishes come with a side of Manhattan. There are starters, small plates, boards, and entrees made for communal dining. Needless to say the seating arrangements are ideal. Some favorites included roasted sweetbreads with roasted summer squash, brown butter and hazelnuts which came with an unexpected, yet welcomed sipper of manhattan, a dish of vegetarian perfection with roasted cauliflower dressed with pine nuts, raisins, and sharp, salty, Cabot cheddar, and a hearty beef sugo with cavatelli, pickled peppers, and chèvre. Now, I am a sucker for anything with squid ink or fideos, so the fideos dish with squid, scallops, sausage and aioli was a clear choice to try. Amongst the many great dishes we had, it didn't speak to me say, the way the fideos at avec have touched my heart, but regardless, each dish came out with soul, plated beauty, and flavorful harmony. Savories shined more than sweets, but the sweets did not disappoint. Oh, and in case you forgot, did I mention the sweetbreads board came with a side of Manhattan?

Chicago Review: Windy City One Night Stand with Nothing but El Ideas

El Ideas 2419 W 14th St  Chicago, IL 60608
www.elideas.com

As I planned my trip to one of America's top food cities, the overabundant list of renowned restaurants and accredited newcomers made my 1 night in Chicago one of the more difficult dining decisions to make. How could I settle on just one restaurant? What kind of meal would  make the most of those precious few hours?

I decided to book a reservation at El Ideas. Although currently not one of the most wildly spoken-of restaurants amongst Chicago's star studded list, the micro-restaurant concept peaked my interest. A small and intimate setting outside the hustle of downtown, a curious inspiration from unique ingredients and techniques, and a multi-course smorgasbord of 14 courses was promised. Reservations are taken no more than 1 month in advance, but in my mind, I had waited over 4 months for this night and I was much in anticipation of what was to come.

Arriving by UBER on a rainy Thursday night for the 7pm seating, we found ourselves at the unmarked door of a small, brick walled building which led us into the El Ideas dining room. Small but spacious in an industrial type of way, minimalist to say the least. Over to my right: a line up of stainless steel prep tables, white steam from the kitchen, and bright lights that shined into my eyes. Over to the left: the maitre'd guided us to the contrasting dimly lit dining area to our table lined in basic white linen.

When dining at this micro-restaurant, you can tote your own libations-there is no corkage.There also happens to be no alcohol service, so if you don't come toting your own, you may find yourself making good friends with the table next to you. But with this BYOB rule, it does open up a world of self-made options in terms of wine pairings. Since the menu isn't posted, the recommended rule is to be safe: start with bubbles, bring a white, finish with red. A selection of craft beers would also be quite appropriate, if not craved, and perhaps could have been an even better pairing with the menu I had that evening.

With a total of only 24 seats in the house, there is no wait staff necessary. Chef Foss and the Maitre'd serve as your multi-functional host and staff of the evening, presenting each plate course by course. The menu started with a beautiful amuse of tuna with pink pepper, quail egg, and osetra caviar. Some complex and highly successful dishes included a squid salad with black olive and dried green garlic which teased you into wanting more, and bellota ham with cherry vinegar gellee, crispy ramps and finished with fat crumbles that melted on your tongue like luxurious velvet.


The more substantial courses however didn't pack as meaningful of a punch as its predecessors. A dish such as the halibut with fresh uni and bitter greens showed only one note, one texture, and lacked  the acidity necessary to bring it to life. A beautiful, perfectly cooked piece of bison was coupled tastefully with radish and roasted beets, although the beet gellee addition seemed irrelevant. By course 6, guests are well fed and well lubricated, making it nearly impossible to not walk into the kitchen for a glimpse, a question, or a photo opp.





The sweet courses were plentiful as well as interesting; showing off molecular techniques and combining savory with sweet, although none too memorable, and a top-off of french-pressed coffee sealed the evening off.


The food and the overall experience of the evening was eventful and the hours were well spent. Albeit, the menu conversation that one may have hoped for with Chef Foss or his team was rather lacking considering the open kitchen concept that they paint with their "question everything" motto. I wouldn't say questions were met with irritation, but they weren't the warm responses that one might expect when coming to an intimate dining experience with a chef who wants, and loves to share their craft. Perhaps those types of responses are only what food-inquisitive diners dream of, but it would have been a nice to have for my memory of that one Chicago night.