Thursday, August 29, 2013

Eat N Wander: Minneapolis

For every city traveled, I think back on my most delicious experiences and compile a list of my most recommended for that city. Considered a work in progress, this list will be updated and continue to grow and change as I find more memorable, tasty, share-worthy places.

Below are my current recommendations for places to check out while indulging Minneapolis. 

EAT N DRINK
112 Eatery, 112 N 3rd Street
112eatery.com
Recommended for: Date night dinner, intimate dinner with friends 
Price: Average
Tips: Majority of the appetizers and a handful of entrees serve as great shared plates. Highly recommended to approach dinner as shared small plates style vs individual entrees.
This casual restaurant can be dressed up or down. And the menu reflects the same sentiment. An 
American eatery that does almost every dish I have had really well, you will taste midwest comfort food mixed with eclectic inspired dishes and ingredients. The appetizer list is bountiful and so is the entree menu. Food enthusiasts and food conservatives alike will be able to find the perfect dish for their palate on this menu. The restaurant setting is dim and intimate and you just feel nurtured. It's absolutely outstanding and always consistent. 


The Bachelor Farmer
bachelorfarmer.com
Recommended for:  Date night dinner, intimate dinner with friends, Brunch
Price: Average
Tips: If you're there for brunch do not miss out on ordering some of their decadent and interesting fresh baked muffins and  pastries for the table. Wash it down with a glass of champagne from the champagne cart that comes by.
A sustainable garden on a rooftop in Minnesota? It's true, and The Bachelor Farmer made it happen. This restaurant is charming and despite a nondescript, Nordic style modest personality, it easily stands out as one of Minneapolis' sweetheart restaurants. The restaurant is almost unmarked making it hard to find, and completely out of the hustle and bustle of downtown. But once inside, its unfinished beams, brick walls, and minimalist decor bring it to life in the warmest, most inviting way. Then, just like its personality, in its modesty it shows basic, dishes on the menu that embrace the main ingredient. But with a taste you'll be impressed and realize how good basic really is. Also for champagne enthusiasts, they offer champagnes by the glass that are typically only sold by the bottle, available at Sunday brunch only.

Eat N Wander: Portland

For every city traveled, I think back on my most delicious experiences and compile a list of my most recommended for that city. Considered a work in progress, this list will be updated and continue to grow and change as I find more memorable, tasty, share-worthy places to recommend.

Below are my current recommendations for places to check out while indulging Portland. 

EAT N DRINK LIST
Clyde Common, 1014 SW Stark Street, Pearl District
clydecommon.com
Recommended for: Dinner, cocktails
Price: Average
Tips: Order the board of the day to start, it comes with a side of Manhattan
I can't rave enough about this place. It's really inviting, warm, and the perfect place to hang out with friends or a loved one on a rainy night or even a beautiful Summer night. Its along side and connected to the iconic ACE hotel. There are tons of small shareable dishes to choose from, and the communal seating is perfect for it. The drinks are made with love and respect for the ingredients, bourbons are infused in house, and they even make their own ginger beer in house. Have cocktails here for sure, and if you need to stray there are just a handful of select beers to choose from. Plates are beautiful and well presented and you can see the cooks hard at work through the almost open kitchen set up. American food  done with really fresh ingredients, not that you expect anything less in Portland. 


Ned Ludd, 3925 NE MLK blvd, Northeast
nedluddpdx.com
Recommended for: Dinner, brunch,cocktails
Price: Average
Tips: Sit outside on the wooden communal benches when the weather is nice. Sip drinks out of mason jars and feel like you never want to leave 
This is a wood fired restaurant, meaning almost everything on the menu comes from the wood burning oven which is amazingly respectable. And what doesn't, is just overwhelmingly light and as fresh and in season as you can get. Handmade charcuterie, fresh garden picked vegetables. The food is just really genuine and respectful of the ingredient itself. Simple and clean, no fuss. 



Nongs Khao Man Gai, 1003 SW Alder Street, Downtown
khaomangai.com
Recommended for: Quick lunch, snack, hangover cure
Price: Cheap, under $10
Tips: There's nowhere to sit, so be prepared to take it with you somewhere else to eat. Or, if you look lost enough they'll let you stand and perch on the 6" sliver or of counter space at the window. Get a side of fried chicken skin, it's life changing.
Nong the owner who runs this food pod is not messing around. She's a tiny thai lady with a big, unmistakable, enthusiastic voice and will welcome you in her window like you've been there a million times before. In the heart of downtown's cluster of food pods, it clearly makes its presence known by the line up of people that spans down the block during lunch time. You wonder what all the fuss is about and simply put- it's just chicken and rice. The white rice is steamed, the chicken is poached, but then what makes it is the sauce. Soy, sugar, garlic, ginger, goodness... it's addictive. So addictive they even sell it by the bottle now. Comes as simple as it gets, wrapped up in white butcher paper instead of a to go box (environmentally conscious, AND food cost genius) Served with a side of clear broth- that, of course, does come in to go packaging.


Pok-Pok3226 SE Division Street, Portland Oregon
pokpokpdx.com
Recommended for: Afternoon Bite, Early Dinner, Dinner
Price: Cheap to Medium
Tips: Seating is limited both upstairs and downstairs, so get there early. Try the salted plum collins cocktail, just because you may never have tried anything like it.
Fine, I'm going to say it. I wasn't that impressed. There! Now why am I adding this to the list if I am not that impressed? Because I am charmed by the fact that it instantly transports you to a little shack somewhere in the PAC. and I found that part of it endearing especially when you consider where you really are. The dishes like the Papaya Salad, Beef Salad, Roast Fish  and Curry were in fact good; lots of vinegar, fish sauce, spice, and sweetness. And yes, the roast chicken, and Ike's chicken wings were good too, but based on the hype of expectations, I found myself wondering "Should I be blown away? Is this supposed to be the best Thai I have ever tasted?" The answer I think was no. But I couldn't help but think that maybe I would have felt differently if I hadn't heard and expected so much. Regardless, I still list this as a great place to visit given the experience. Try early afternoon before the rush, and it won't disappoint.

Eat N Wander: Austin

For every city traveled, I think back on my most delicious experiences and compile a list of my most recommended for that city. Considered a work in progress, this list will be updated and continue to grow and change as I find more memorable, tasty, share-worthy places to recommend.

Below are my current recommendations for places to check out while indulging Austin.

EAT N DRINK LIST
La Barbeque, 1502 South 1st Street, South Austin
labarbeque.com
Recommended for: Barbecue, lunch
Price: Cheap, but you should spend at least $15 to get your fix in
Tips: Get there early, they close shop pretty early in the afternoon when they sell out.
A BBQ trailer with loads of options and southern hospitality. Bring yourself, bring the friends, bring the family.You can get down and dirty. Get there early before things start selling out and definitely try the sausage.

Uchi, 801 South Lamar Blvd, South Austin
uchiaustin.com
Recommended for: Dinner, date night, girls night 
Price: A pretty penny. About $100+ pp for dinner
Tips: Must tries are the Foie Nigiri and the Hamachi Nabe
Fresh fish and contemporary hot and cold Japanese dishes with clean flavors. Presented beautifully and executed well. Quaint, casual, but sophisticated air. A great place for a cute date night, or a girls/guys night. Getting resos can be tricky and waits are long. Make your reso way in advance (Meaning, at least a month in advance to get a decent time slot.)

Peche
, 208 W. 4th Street, Downtown Warehouse District
pecheaustin.com
Recommended for: Casual bistro style dinner, a glass of wine or a few cocktails

Price: Average price for food, pricey drinks

Tips: NA
Peche is more of a restaurant than a bar, but with a long bar that stretches down the length of the restaurant, you're likely to find yourself a seat, or three. 2 walls are fully lined with every liquor and spirit imaginable. Choose from creative cocktail concoctions, classic cocktails, and interesting wines. To find this euro bistro style, calm haven in the middle of the downtown chaos makes it worthwhile. I didn't eat, but I did find myself salivating over the mussels that were cleverly adorned with pieces of bone marrow that the gentleman next to me were slurping down. They have friendly bartenders, good music, and a great vibe. A great breath of fresh air. And next time I'm getting those mussels.


Lustre Pearl
, 97 Rainey Street, Rainey  (Note has been closed as of 2014)lustrepearl.com
Recommended for: After dinner drinks or beer, people watching, entertainment with friends

Price: Average

Tips: Don't try to order anything fancy (here or any bar on Rainey) or you will end up with a disaster. Stick to beers, and your standard mixed drinks. 
One of the many old rustic bungalow turned bars on Rainey street, and this one is pretty charming with their rocking chairs out on the front porch and just enough back yard seating to make it a party. Honestly, you will feel like you are in a college bar when you cram your way through the crowd to order a drink, but what you'll find is actually a good mix of young and mostly older, mid 30's crowd, which is pretty typical of Rainey street. This is a laid back local bar good for conversation under the string lights and stars, and if you can't make or find good conversation, you can at least stare at (or talk about) one of the many people trying to hula hoop with beer in hand. The best (smartest) thing about Lustre Pearl is that there is a taco food truck parked out back for the late night munchies.







Eat N Wander: Los Angeles

For every city traveled, I think back on my most delicious experiences and compile a list of my most recommended for that city. Considered a work in progress, this list will be updated and continue to grow and change as I find more memorable, tasty, share-worthy places to recommend.

Below are my current recommendations for places to check out while indulging LA.  Enjoy!

EAT N DRINK LIST
The Bazaar, by Jose Andres, 465 La Cienega Blvd, Beverly Hills
thebazaar.com
Recommended for: Dinner, Big night out
Price: A pretty penny. Recommended $90+ pp for a good eclectic mix
Cocktails are pricey but worth trying. Wines start around $75 and up for the bottle. 
Tips: Try the egg omelette, the olives aren't as exciting as they're made out to be- order the caprese instead for a similar experience 
Located at the SLS hotel in Beverly Hills, this is not a restaurant, it's a dining experience. Trendy, dark prentencious, interesting. With plenty of dishes that feature a modern take on traditional Spanish Tapas, it offers a futuristic experience in molecular gastronomy and mixology. Sit in the Blanca room for a classier, quieter evening, or sit in the Rojo room with the open kitchen for more excitement and noise. You'll see all kinds of people from old man ballers with their young girlfriends in stilletos and spandex, that LA kid and his friends, all with moms credit card, neon sunglasses, and boat shoes, to totally normal couples, small groups of all ages, out of towners, and the curious food junkies.

Bottega Louie, 700 S Grand Ave, Downtown 

bottegalouie.com
Recommended for: Brunch, Snack, Drinks
Price: Average, can get high if you let it
Tips: Sit at the bar and chat with the knowledgable bartenders, grab a few beautiful pastries to go on your way out
A beautiful restaurant that is light, bright, and airy. It's casual and chic, and always busy. Great for a decadent morning or afternoon meal, or for a mid day cocktail, champagne, or espresso. Menu is Italian, American, Euro. Food is quality, drinks are well made, decent selection of craft and import beers. Crowd is business, young and old, families included (but not a ton)




Baco Mercat, 408 S Main Street, Downtown 
bacomercat.com
Recommended for: Casual, Low Key Dinner
Price: Average
Tips: Can be hit or miss. But the miss is still good
Smaller restaurant with lots of life, offering thick bready flatbreads and "sandwiches" that can maybe better be described as similar to a gyro. Flavors are more Latin, Spanish inspired than anything else, but include the usual Cali style mix of flavors and ingredients. Interesting beers, wines, and cocktails. Good for a small group of 4 or less, not so much for being family oriented.



Wurstkuche, 800 E 3rd Street, Downtown
wurstkuche.com

Recommended for: Hanging out, casual beer and a bite
Price: Cheap
Tips: Most of the sausages taste practically the same once you throw all the toppings on. If you care to taste, more is less. Don't bother with the fries.
Hang out for hours to lively beats and drink a ton of beer. Known notoriously for exotic sausages of all kinds pork, rabbit, kangaroo, crocodile etc etc etc)  this Industrial space is in the hip little arts district. Filled with communal seating for the happy, beer loving, sausage eating patrons, it's hip and then hipster. Stand in a massive line to order your beer and brat of choice, quickly send the first friend who ordered on the mission to scour and secure a seat in the back. You'll eat the sausage and perhaps like me, you won't be too impressed, but it doesn't break the bank to try one, and it'll hold you over before dinner or your late night snack. And not to mention you'll feel like you're cool bc you checked it out.




Change up: Eat N Wander Destinations

I eat out and drink out often, far too often to always write about it or find the time to do it. 

And just now it hit me:  if the ultimate goal is to help my fellow restless eaters out there figure out where to go when out and about, I better stop my reviewing and just make solid, useful suggestions. Do you want to know where to go for a nightcap in LA? Where to find seafood in Mexico? Or where to find great Chinese food in San Diego? Well ok I can't help you there, but I can at least make fair suggestions. You get the point!

So, from today on I'm just going to update posts by city. If and when I come across somewhere fun and noteworthy, I'll add it to the list. Happy eats and happy travels!

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

San Diego Review: South Park's Buona Forchetta

Buona Forchetta 3001 Beech St, San Diego, CA 92102
www.buonaforchettasd.com

Who is Sofia? I had decided it was time to finally meet her in the flesh instead of going by all the hearsay. 

There had been so much buzz around Buona Forchetta since it established itself in the heart of South Park that it was hard not to be curious about "Sofia", the infamous pizza oven with a big presence in the small kitchen of this Italian restaurant.

Word around town is that lines are long but the traditional Neopolitan/"Neopolitana" style pizza is worth the wait. Crowds here include pizza obsessed neighbors and long distance visitors, and amongst them quite a few passionate, speaking-with-hands-type Italian families out for a good time and some pizza, pasta e vino.

I had said for months that I would go meet her-Sofia, and with surprisingly much further delay than anticipated, I finally did so. 

The restaurant decor is simple, quaint, and rustic in feel and in style.With plenty of outdoor seating the patio crowd is full of life, group conversations, and laughter. Indoor seating is available for those wanting a more intimate and romantic seat in the house. It also means that you don't mind a slightly tighter squeeze and a longer wait. The inside is worth the wait though especially on a chilly night, and it is definitely charming and cozy in a very European cafe type of way. 

As the restaurant bustles with a number of Italian diners, the outlook for traditional Italian fare feels promising. The menu is short, but as a restaurant who names their pizza oven, one might suspect that they focus on the speciality at hand. Amongst the pizzas, there are also a handful of handmade pastas as well as chalkboard specials of the day.

I ordered the Sofia pizza because after all, it was only logical that the oven's namesake would be their best representation. An Arugula salad with Anchovies and fresh Parmesan also caught my eye on the menu. It seemed to perfectly fit the bill of getting in some greens before the caloric feast that was soon to come. And speaking of carbs, does anyone else find it nearly impossible to turn down housemade pasta? Well, when in Rome- Okay I mean, South Park, what better than to pair a pizza with fresh pasta. A Fettuccine Carbonara to be exact.

As I made my way through the 3 courses, I didn't feel particularly one way or the other in terms of a love or dislike of the dishes that night. The salad to start was dressed perfectly, but from the minute the plate was presented, my heart just sunk a bit. I had ficticiously imagined this salad in my head. It would have plump briny anchovies topped with salty wide curls of nutty Parmesan. And this just wasn't the case as a few anchovies decorated the plate, and thin micro planed shreds of parm got lost amongst the tossed flavorful greens. Despite this moment of my own strange expectation, I enjoyed the dish as the chef intended. And I did actually enjoy it.

After waiting what felt like an eternity between courses and with a wine glass at empty, the Sofia pizza and pasta arrived. I had heard so many great things about what was to come and proving delicious looking to the eyes, my empty stomach was now well starved and my hopes were high with pure excitement to eat everything in sight.

The excitement dwindled after those first few bites, as I didn't feel anything more than just a satisfaction with the act of eating. The crust of the pizza was slightly tough but then in contrast over sauced in the middle leaving limp, unflattering slices which proved to be a challenge to pick up. It ultimately came down to a knife and fork show. The Carbonara was also nothing of grandeur as the dressing of the pasta was salted with a heavy hand. Perhaps even more disappointing were the dense noodles that seemed to lack any bite, making an already heavy dish feel even heavier. I didn't have an opportunity to comment or even wash it down with another glass of wine. I was however asked if I was interested in dessert after I had asked for a box to go. I didn't take the pasta with me.



Perhaps my hopes were too high, or maybe it was just an off night. I wished it to be better, and I also wished that we had more attentive service. With all this said, it wasn't a lost cause. I came hungry and I left full. The environment was charming, and I'd be open to trying it again. After all, often times an atmosphere can make more of the experience than the food itself. We can often wish it wasn't the case, but it's just the truth.

At the end of this story, I met Sofia and I would describe her as nice to know.





Tuesday, July 9, 2013

San Diego Review: The Hake Kitchen & Bar- La Jolla gets a new gem

The Hake Kitchen & Bar 1250 Prospect St, Ste B10 La Jolla, CA 92037 
thehake.com


Knowing nothing more about The Hake other than the fact that hake is a fish, I assumed a new seafood restaurant was in the works. I was excited and nervous all at the same time with the idea of a newcomer coming into the sleepy little town of La Jolla. What will they do to stand out? Will they survive? Home to only a few true culinary gems such as Whisknladle and Prepkitchen (both a part of the Whisknladle Hospitality group) most new La Jolla restaurants disappear rather quickly, leaving behind those which have stayed for decades, or those which have a tendency to cater toward the mainstream. Of course as a tourist town, this makes sense. But as a local, we are just screaming for something new already!

The Hake Kitchen & Bar opened their doors at the ever- changing restaurant location on Prospect which sits under street level. Having changed hands at least 4 times in the past 10 years that I could recall, and all with different owners and different concepts, I was curious to know what might be different this time around. I am happy to report that there was a lot that was different here, and it was pleasantly different. 

Starting with the service, it was stellar. Polite, attentive, inquisitive, but never overbearing. The dining space itself is the same way: now evoking a nautical open air feel, it's casual, elegant and inviting all at the same time. At first blush, it appeared that someone really knows what they're doing.

Paper menus highlight a variety of Latin inspired dishes. Starting with over a handful of fresh seafood tiraditos from tuna to yellowtail, and moving onto small plate selections such as Grilled Octopus with Olive Oil Poached Potatoes, Tuna Chicharon style tacos, Steamed Mussels with Chorizo Broth, and Shaved Rib Eye with Arugula. There were farm style dishes as well such as a beautiful fresh Burrata Cheese that I adored, which was paired with a plump roasted tomato and a fresh salad of mint, parsley, and basil. And for land grazers there were meatier entrees such as Grilled New York Strip and a Berkshire Pork Chop which looked amazing, But as the name suggests, the seafood really is the star. 



The food was rather simple which allowed the quality ingredients to speak for themselves. The dishes themselves weren't over complicated and nothing felt over thought. It was this genuine simplicity in ingredients coupled with the light, yet appropriate hand in seasoning that made this a really enjoyable meal.

And of course, a great cocktail can make an enjoyable meal even greater. Their cocktail menu offers a handful of twists and nods to traditional cocktails (think French 75, Old Fashioned) as well as a nice variety of Mezcal. With the suggested selection from our server, I found the smooth yet robust smokiness of mezcal to be a great pairing amongst most of the more Latin style dishes of the evening.

After a brief visit from the owner, it came as no surprise to discover that there are several seafood-centric restaurants that fall under their umbrella which are located in Mexico City. With La Jolla as the home of their first restaurant under Tintorera Hospitality in the US, they created their menu by continuing to do what has been proven successful. 

At times throughout the evening, it was almost mind boggling to experience such smooth service, good timing, and well executed dishes from a restaurant this new. Now having only been open for 2 weeks at the time of this visit, one can only hope that the service will continue to remain as impressive and attentive as it was. As if so, I think La Jolla will be very happy to welcome The Hake into the neighborhood for the long haul.


Thursday, July 4, 2013

Portland Review: Nothing Common at Clyde Common

Clyde Common, 1014 SW Stark Street, Portland, Oregon 97205
www.clydecommon.com

Where do I begin with Clyde Common? I took a visit over 1 month ago and the fond memory of that dinner still burns on in my mind. It was my first "taste" of Portland, and I have to say if this is what Portland has to offer, pack your travel bags because you owe Portland a visit.

Situated in the historic Ace hotel and next to one of Portland's iconic Stumpps Coffee shops, it feels right in line with "Portlandia." From the minute you walk in from the light drizzle of the late afternoon rain that is so symbolic of Portland, you'll find yourself immediately engulfed in the warmth and buzz of this restaurant. Wooden communal bench seating throughout, an open kitchen of chefs and cooks doing their craft while laughing, bantering, meditating, and a good looking bar stocked with knick knacks, accoutrements, and fine spirits. A chalkboard covered wall filled with scribbles show off the extensive bourbon and whiskey selection. There wasn't much not to love at first glance.

If you didn't already know walking in to Clyde Common that the bar itself is also iconic to Portland's craft cocktail scene, you will quickly realize it. Known as one of the originals to hit the scene bringing Portland's cocktail culture to its nationally acclaimed prowess, this bar still makes everything from scratch; from punchy house made ginger beer to smooth barrel aged bourbons. 


If you love to share, this place is for you. And be it known, some dishes come with a side of Manhattan. There are starters, small plates, boards, and entrees made for communal dining. Needless to say the seating arrangements are ideal. Some favorites included roasted sweetbreads with roasted summer squash, brown butter and hazelnuts which came with an unexpected, yet welcomed sipper of manhattan, a dish of vegetarian perfection with roasted cauliflower dressed with pine nuts, raisins, and sharp, salty, Cabot cheddar, and a hearty beef sugo with cavatelli, pickled peppers, and chèvre. Now, I am a sucker for anything with squid ink or fideos, so the fideos dish with squid, scallops, sausage and aioli was a clear choice to try. Amongst the many great dishes we had, it didn't speak to me say, the way the fideos at avec have touched my heart, but regardless, each dish came out with soul, plated beauty, and flavorful harmony. Savories shined more than sweets, but the sweets did not disappoint. Oh, and in case you forgot, did I mention the sweetbreads board came with a side of Manhattan?





Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Chicago Review: Windy City One Night Stand with Nothing but El Ideas

El Ideas 2419 W 14th St  Chicago, IL 60608
www.elideas.com

As I planned my trip to one of America's top food cities, the overabundant list of renowned restaurants and accredited newcomers made my 1 night in Chicago one of the more difficult dining decisions to make. How could I settle on just one restaurant? What kind of meal would  make the most of those precious few hours?

I decided to book a reservation at El Ideas. Although currently not one of the most wildly spoken-of restaurants amongst Chicago's star studded list, the micro-restaurant concept peaked my interest. A small and intimate setting outside the hustle of downtown, a curious inspiration from unique ingredients and techniques, and a multi-course smorgasbord of 14 courses was promised. Reservations are taken no more than 1 month in advance, but in my mind, I had waited over 4 months for this night and I was much in anticipation of what was to come.

Arriving by UBER on a rainy Thursday night for the 7pm seating, we found ourselves at the unmarked door of a small, brick walled building which led us into the El Ideas dining room. Small but spacious in an industrial type of way, minimalist to say the least. Over to my right: a line up of stainless steel prep tables, white steam from the kitchen, and bright lights that shined into my eyes. Over to the left: the maitre'd guided us to the contrasting dimly lit dining area to our table lined in basic white linen.



When dining at this micro-restaurant, you can tote your own libations-there is no corkage.There also happens to be no alcohol service, so if you don't come toting your own, you may find yourself making good friends with the table next to you. But with this BYOB rule, it does open up a world of self-made options in terms of wine pairings. Since the menu isn't posted, the recommended rule is to be safe: start with bubbles, bring a white, finish with red. A selection of craft beers would also be quite appropriate, if not craved, and perhaps could have been an even better pairing with the menu I had that evening.


With a total of only 24 seats in the house, there is no wait staff necessary. Chef Foss and the Maitre'd serve as your multi-functional host and staff of the evening, presenting each plate course by course. The menu started with a beautiful amuse of tuna with pink pepper, quail egg, and osetra caviar. Some complex and highly successful dishes included a squid salad with black olive and dried green garlic which teased you into wanting more, and bellota ham with cherry vinegar gellee, crispy ramps and finished with fat crumbles that melted on your tongue like luxurious velvet.


The more substantial courses however didn't pack as meaningful of a punch as its predecessors. A dish such as the halibut with fresh uni and bitter greens showed only one note, one texture, and lacked  the acidity necessary to bring it to life. A beautiful, perfectly cooked piece of bison was coupled tastefully with radish and roasted beets, although the beet gellee addition seemed irrelevant. By course 6, guests are well fed and well lubricated, making it nearly impossible to not walk into the kitchen for a glimpse, a question, or a photo opp.





The sweet courses were plentiful as well as interesting; showing off molecular techniques and combining savory with sweet, although none too memorable, and a top-off of french-pressed coffee sealed the evening off.


The food and the overall experience of the evening was eventful and the hours were well spent. Albeit, the menu conversation that one may have hoped for with Chef Foss or his team was rather lacking considering the open kitchen concept that they paint with their "question everything" motto. I wouldn't say questions were met with irritation, but they weren't the warm responses that one might expect when coming to an intimate dining experience with a chef who wants, and loves to share their craft. Perhaps those types of responses are only what food-inquisitive diners dream of, but it would have been a nice to have for my memory of that one Chicago night.


Wednesday, May 1, 2013

San Diego: BLAH and TIGER!TIGER! Nose to Tail Beer Pairing Dinner

Event: Nose to Tail Beer Pairing Dinner, April 29, 2013

Tiger! Tiger! 3025 El Cajon Blvd. San Diego CA 92104
www.tigertigertavern.com 

Blind Lady Ale House 3416 Adams Ave. San Diego, CA 92116
www.blindladyalehouse.com


I think I can still taste the savory pork lingering on my lips... It's been two days since I went head to head with the exquisite Berkshire pig who sacrificed his life for my gain. He was of a fine breed, that of which was marbled, juicy, tender, and delectably meaty. I guess I should say I went head to "nose to tail" with that pig, and he didn't stand a chance against me or many of the other 50 pork enthusiasts that came ready to fight for our lives and our arteries that evening. This battle that I speak of was the Nose to Tail dinner held at Tiger! Tiger! North Park this past Monday, April 29. The culinary teams of Chefs Todd Renner (BLAH) and Sharon Wilson (Tiger!Tiger!) collaborated with their beer brewing and pouring counterparts to present their first Nose to Tail beer dinner featuring 5 solid courses of swine each presented with a thoughtful beer pairing.

When I first caught glimpse of this event in my inbox, it took me all of 2 minutes to determine that I needed to be a part of this. Okay fine, for those that know me better I'll admit that they had me at "nose to tail", so I read on. Being rather familiar with the culinary stylings of both Blind Lady and Tiger! Tiger! I started to daydream about all the delicious things that would potentially come out of these kitchens as they celebrated the time-honored heritage pig. I knew that their menu would be down to earth, the ingredients would be locally seasonal, the flavors would be bold, the evening's sentiment would be light-hearted, and without a doubt there would be plenty of good beer to be had by all.

I wasn't disappointed. Upon a 15 minute fashionably late arrival (may I blame the accidental run in with the new Belching Beaver tasting room around the corner? Yes, they are now open), the set up was exactly as I had hoped. The restaurant looked as warm and inviting as always, but this time much to my delight the counters were lined with crunchy, lightly dusted Pork Cracklin's, tables were set and ready to host a feast, and an intimate sized crowd of happy, hungry, guests were all mentally preparing themselves and giddy in anticipation for what was to come. We were greeted immediately upon arrival with a friendly pint of Craftsman 1903 in hand which kicked off the 3 tray passed appetizers which technically embodied the first course.

First/Tray Pass Course (s) 
Sausage with Manchego served with Mustard: Sausage was good, but the herb mustard that came with it was out of this world.

Currywurst Corn Dogs with housemade Ketchup: Light, airy, with just enough curry to taste. I'll say it again though.. that mustard was out of this world. I wished I had saved some for my currywurst.

"Bruschetta" with Bacon: This menu item was the result of a last minute ingredient change up, a common and appreciated practice of all seasonal and market-dependent restaurants. It was supposed to be a BLT triangle but what they produced would kick that sad little BLT to the curb. This "bruschetta" was topped with fresh local avocado slices, thick slabs of deeply marinated and caramelized bacon, and tangerine supremes. Creamy, salty, and finished with acid. A perfect bite (or 2).

Beer: Craftsman 1903


With a welcome introduction from the culinary team, it was from there that the nose to tail battle begun as we firmly rooted down and took our positions for the next 4 hours of indulgence. Communal-style seating enhanced the evening and played a part in imparting a genuineness and honesty of character to this event to make it memorable. It wasn't just because of the generous 4 courses that were to come, but because of the sense of community and comaraderie that takes place organically when you put strangers and neighbors together at a table to share in a feast. This dining experience created a great precedent for what was to come from the first course to the last bite.


First Course
Head Cheese Terrine with Lemon Verbena: This was my favorite dish of the evening. The head cheese was rich in mouthfeel with a great proportion of meat to toothful collagen,while still maintaining a lightness in texture and seasoned with subtle hints of deep earthy anise and allspice. It was served with chewy, thinly prepared fried pig ear atop of a Suzie's Farm lettuce and radish salad. The salad was overdressed, but the main star made up for it, and the slightly oaky wheat beer was a great match. Note: I am a sinner to think of muddy-ing the water, but I did find myself wishing that I had more of that mustard from earlier to enjoy with this dish.

Beer: Automatic Sub Agrestic


Second Course
Wood-Fired Porchetta with Rosemary Agrodulce Mustarda with Lard Wood Fired Vegetables and Pigs Feet Baked Beans
The Porchetta was definitely the love child of a lot of labor and time. The pork loin had been slowly brined and stuffed with a variety of pungent mixed herbs and seasonings, then rolled in pork belly to be wood-fired and smoked for days using the same wood from the avocado farm that produced the "bruschetta" in the first course. The result was a juicy, intensely flavorful porchetta with a crisp, sweet, crackly skin that you could bite off like candy. The Brown Ale stood up nicely against the intensity of this course and rounded out the fat content.

Beer: Port Board Meeting Brown Ale


Third Course
Housemade Goat Cheese with Lardo: This was nice young fresh goat cheese with a mild tang that made it a good option as a palate cleanser. This dish was a good effort, however it did conjur a few questions of practicality as the thin layer of lardo didn't seem to enhance the dish in terms of texture, nor did the piece of nougatine brittle that was served as an accompaniment which was too soft to crack. The cider pairing also left the palate a bit flat, as the flavor nuances of the goat cheese and cider were too similar.

Beer: Tieton Apricot Cider




Final Course
Local Strawberry Pie with Lard and Butter Crust and Vanilla Gelato: A good, friendly and safe way to finish the meal, for those that made it this far. What got my attention for this dish was actually not the pie, but the Naughty Sauce beer that was paired with it. This undercover beer appears golden blonde in color, but greets you with a highly caffeinated and pleasantly surprising nose of sweet, dark roasted coffee. This milky golden stout is beyond intriguing.
Now I know where I'm going next time I need a pick-me-up (and it won't be the coffee shop.)

Beer: Noble Ale Works' Naughty Sauce



Thursday, April 25, 2013

San Diego Review: CityBeat Festival of Beers 2013

CityBeat Festival of Beers, San Diego Annual Event
www.sandiegomusicfoundation.org/beerfest/

When you think of San Diego you think of surf, sun and sand. And thanks to the flourishing homegrown breweries that have birthed within this past decade, San Diego has also respectfully and rightfully-so become synonymous with great craft beer.

The CityBeat Festival of Beers is the epitome of what a great San Diego event should be. Okay, so there isn't surf and there isn't sand, but who needs it when you have sun and plenty of handcrafted beers? With about 2,200 in attendance this year, this event has been going on 6 years strong and counting. With roots in North Park, the event was held once again in front of the historic (and recently remodeled) Lafayette hotel. This annual event features live music from local bands and brings in crowds from all over San Diego and beyond, mixed with a generous dose of the local neighborhood as the event stretches down the full block of El Cajon Blvd. between Texas St. and Mississippi.

For four straight daylight hours (or five if you can score VIP entry) beer geeks and novices alike can imbibe on a seemingly endless sampling of local and domestic craft beers. Although at first glance the tiny 4-5 oz beer cup for the event may surely appear to runneth over, you can't let the size fool you. Every brewery style from nano breweries to microbreweries to the big dogs were represented, and they came packing heavy weight 10-11% IPAs and Porters, to light and refreshing Pilsners and Belgians. If you came chasing a buzz, you will be sure to find it.

With over 60 breweries in attendance, each of the breweries offered 1-2 of their most popular and boldest brews such as Alesmith Horny Devil, Green Flash IPA, The Lost Abbey Lost and Found, Avery White Rascal, and Stone Ruination to name a few. But if you looked hard enough, amongst the crowd you could spot a few select breweries that offered limited tastings from their secret stash of prized and more hard-to-find beer styles. Some rarities we came across was an aged Old Stock Cellar Reserve barley wine from North Coast Brewing Co. and a nitro Porter from Rock Bottom Brewery. Now these are the types of beers that can make any beer geek swoon.

Speaking of swoon, as beer sampling usually evolves into a case of the munchies, I have to say that if you were one of the clever (and dexterous) people to string yourself a pretzel necklace before the event, more power to you and hopefully you didn't take the stares offensively; they were simply stares of envy as the rest of us watched you snack your way down the aisles of beer. But for those of us that weren't as pre-meditated with our planning, there were several food stands offering perfect beer accompaniments like hot dogs and brats for purchase. This is an event where you can drink, eat, sing, dance, and soak up the San Diego rays.

So if for some reason all this talk of delicious beer and fun in the sun isn't enough to encourage you to go next year, first, you'll be missing out on a great time. But second, maybe I don't mind because that just means more beer for me and the fellow Festival of Beer junkies.

And most importantly, please know that proceeds from the CityBeat Festival of Beers event goes to the San Diego Music Foundation, where donations help contribute to artistic growth and increased understanding, appreciation, enjoyment and interest in music, and its ability to enhance and enrich the City of San Diego. If that isn't a great reason to raise a glass, I don't know what is. So cheers to a lifetime of continuing music education and local music, and long live craft beer!

Monday, April 22, 2013

San Diego Review: Carnitas Snack Shack makes one happy little piggy.

Carnitas Snack Shack 2632 University Ave. San Diego, CA 92104
www.carnitassnackshack.com


What is brilliant about Carnitas Snack Shack is its unassuming appearance and a humble simplicity. You walk up, place your order, grab a bottle of local beer or a glass of wine, and kick back. Quite literally the little shack that could which stands on the near corner of University and Oregon Street in North Park, one could easily pass on by. That is, if it wasn't for the obvious line of food-crazed people waiting patiently up and down this street every day, making it unmistakable that something really good is happening here.

What IS happening here? Well, you would have to be living in a hole if you haven't at least heard about it. Chef/Owner Hannis Cavin is making splashes, waves, rip currents even with his pork loving snack shack concept here in San Diego. Often you will find pictures of him with his signature pork dishes, and even Carnitas-his inspiration and pet pig gracing the covers of most local magazines and websites. Him and his wife Sara opened Carnitas Snack Shack in 2011 and it quickly became a food lover's stomping ground.

If it isn't obvious yet, The Shack is all about swine. Their menu changes often and although you will find other mentionable non-pig menu items such as a killer house ground burger, hearty steak or housemade pastrami sandwiches, seasonal salads and sides, and even the occasional seafood special, as their name suggests they are in it for the pork. You will find carnitas on the menu in the form of carnitas tacos and tortas. It's good stuff, but their claim to fame lies evidently somewhere between their Triple Threat Sandwich and the Pork Belly App.

What makes their sandwich a triple threat? A combination of crunchy pork loin schnitzel, moist pulled pork, and crispy bacon all piled high with a generous slather of pepperoni relish and aioli on a fresh and perfectly toasted artisanal (and locally baked) bun: Now that's what. And then there's the Pork Belly App. As quite the fad menu item nowadays, you'll find pork belly on almost every menu across the nation, but pork belly lovers know that not all pork belly is created equal...and thankfully, The Shack does it right. Their version is a sweet, sticky, salty glazed slab of Duroc pork belly that has been slow cooked to perfection leaving a perfect ratio of fat to meat. It's meaty, it's fatty, it's slightly caramelized. They aren't shy with the portion either and while you fork your way into the first melt -in-your mouth tender bite, it will make you feel like you're doing something naughty. It's just that good. The App is also paired with a light salad of frisee, apples and paper thin sliced radishes which act as a nice palate cleanser, and of course helps alleviate any feeling of guilt now that you have had your side of veggies.
Pork Belly App. 

I purposefully made my most recent pilgrimage to the shack in order to sink my teeth into the limited-time-only "Eater San Diego Burger" which made a special appearance as a tribute to Eater National's celebrated Burger Week. It was a tough decision to steer away from the Triple Threat, but this carrot and pepper studded ground pork shoulder burger with sweet chili glazed pork belly, peppercorn aioli and fresh watercress on a pretzel bun called my name, and it didn't disappoint.
The Eater San Diego Burger complete with a side of Carnitas' corn salad.

So let's just say that you don't dig on swine. Vegetarians have no fear. There is a fantastic beet terrine stacked with goat cheese, layered with spinach and beautiful roasted and thinly sliced multicolored beets. Seasonal salads and the occasional vegetarian dish pop up on their specials board too.

And if after all this, you still need to finish it off with something sweet, you can get your fix with one of the locally made sweets which change out often and are featured on the small chalk board at the ordering window. Now you will want to do yourself a favor and plan out your whole meal carefully from drink to dessert the first time you hit the line, because unless you need time and an excuse to digest before dessert, you can bet this place isn't slowing down and you will be waiting at least 20 minutes in line for that cookie.