Wednesday, July 10, 2013

San Diego Review: South Park's Buona Forchetta

Buona Forchetta 3001 Beech St, San Diego, CA 92102
www.buonaforchettasd.com

Who is Sofia? I had decided it was time to finally meet her in the flesh instead of going by all the hearsay. 

There had been so much buzz around Buona Forchetta since it established itself in the heart of South Park that it was hard not to be curious about "Sofia", the infamous pizza oven with a big presence in the small kitchen of this Italian restaurant.

Word around town is that lines are long but the traditional Neopolitan/"Neopolitana" style pizza is worth the wait. Crowds here include pizza obsessed neighbors and long distance visitors, and amongst them quite a few passionate, speaking-with-hands-type Italian families out for a good time and some pizza, pasta e vino.

I had said for months that I would go meet her-Sofia, and with surprisingly much further delay than anticipated, I finally did so. 

The restaurant decor is simple, quaint, and rustic in feel and in style.With plenty of outdoor seating the patio crowd is full of life, group conversations, and laughter. Indoor seating is available for those wanting a more intimate and romantic seat in the house. It also means that you don't mind a slightly tighter squeeze and a longer wait. The inside is worth the wait though especially on a chilly night, and it is definitely charming and cozy in a very European cafe type of way. 

As the restaurant bustles with a number of Italian diners, the outlook for traditional Italian fare feels promising. The menu is short, but as a restaurant who names their pizza oven, one might suspect that they focus on the speciality at hand. Amongst the pizzas, there are also a handful of handmade pastas as well as chalkboard specials of the day.

I ordered the Sofia pizza because after all, it was only logical that the oven's namesake would be their best representation. An Arugula salad with Anchovies and fresh Parmesan also caught my eye on the menu. It seemed to perfectly fit the bill of getting in some greens before the caloric feast that was soon to come. And speaking of carbs, does anyone else find it nearly impossible to turn down housemade pasta? Well, when in Rome- Okay I mean, South Park, what better than to pair a pizza with fresh pasta. A Fettuccine Carbonara to be exact.

As I made my way through the 3 courses, I didn't feel particularly one way or the other in terms of a love or dislike of the dishes that night. The salad to start was dressed perfectly, but from the minute the plate was presented, my heart just sunk a bit. I had ficticiously imagined this salad in my head. It would have plump briny anchovies topped with salty wide curls of nutty Parmesan. And this just wasn't the case as a few anchovies decorated the plate, and thin micro planed shreds of parm got lost amongst the tossed flavorful greens. Despite this moment of my own strange expectation, I enjoyed the dish as the chef intended. And I did actually enjoy it.

After waiting what felt like an eternity between courses and with a wine glass at empty, the Sofia pizza and pasta arrived. I had heard so many great things about what was to come and proving delicious looking to the eyes, my empty stomach was now well starved and my hopes were high with pure excitement to eat everything in sight.

The excitement dwindled after those first few bites, as I didn't feel anything more than just a satisfaction with the act of eating. The crust of the pizza was slightly tough but then in contrast over sauced in the middle leaving limp, unflattering slices which proved to be a challenge to pick up. It ultimately came down to a knife and fork show. The Carbonara was also nothing of grandeur as the dressing of the pasta was salted with a heavy hand. Perhaps even more disappointing were the dense noodles that seemed to lack any bite, making an already heavy dish feel even heavier. I didn't have an opportunity to comment or even wash it down with another glass of wine. I was however asked if I was interested in dessert after I had asked for a box to go. I didn't take the pasta with me.



Perhaps my hopes were too high, or maybe it was just an off night. I wished it to be better, and I also wished that we had more attentive service. With all this said, it wasn't a lost cause. I came hungry and I left full. The environment was charming, and I'd be open to trying it again. After all, often times an atmosphere can make more of the experience than the food itself. We can often wish it wasn't the case, but it's just the truth.

At the end of this story, I met Sofia and I would describe her as nice to know.





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