San Diego Review: South Park's Buona Forchetta

Buona Forchetta 3001 Beech St, San Diego, CA 92102

www.buonaforchettasd.com

Who is Sofia? I had decided it was time to finally meet her in the flesh instead of going by all the hearsay. 

There had been so much buzz around Buona Forchetta since it established itself in the heart of South Park that it was hard not to be curious about "Sofia", the infamous pizza oven with a big presence in the small kitchen of this Italian restaurant.

Word around town is that lines are long but the traditional Neopolitan/"Neopolitana" style pizza is worth the wait. Crowds here include pizza obsessed neighbors and long distance visitors, and amongst them quite a few passionate, speaking-with-hands-type Italian families out for a good time and some pizza, pasta e vino.

I had said for months that I would go meet her-Sofia, and with surprisingly much further delay than anticipated, I finally did so. 

The restaurant decor is simple, quaint, and rustic in feel and in style.With plenty of outdoor seating the patio crowd is full of life, group conversations, and laughter. Indoor seating is available for those wanting a more intimate and romantic seat in the house. It also means that you don't mind a slightly tighter squeeze and a longer wait. The inside is worth the wait though especially on a chilly night, and it is definitely charming and cozy in a very European cafe type of way. 

As the restaurant bustles with a number of Italian diners, the outlook for traditional Italian fare feels promising. The menu is short, but as a restaurant who names their pizza oven, one might suspect that they focus on the speciality at hand. Amongst the pizzas, there are also a handful of handmade pastas as well as chalkboard specials of the day.

I ordered the Sofia pizza because after all, it was only logical that the oven's namesake would be their best representation. An Arugula salad with Anchovies and fresh Parmesan also caught my eye on the menu. It seemed to perfectly fit the bill of getting in some greens before the caloric feast that was soon to come. And speaking of carbs, does anyone else find it nearly impossible to turn down housemade pasta? Well, when in Rome- Okay I mean, South Park, what better than to pair a pizza with fresh pasta. A Fettuccine Carbonara to be exact.

As I made my way through the 3 courses, I didn't feel particularly one way or the other in terms of a love or dislike of the dishes that night. The salad to start was dressed perfectly, but from the minute the plate was presented, my heart just sunk a bit. I had ficticiously imagined this salad in my head. It would have plump briny anchovies topped with salty wide curls of nutty Parmesan. And this just wasn't the case as a few anchovies decorated the plate, and thin micro planed shreds of parm got lost amongst the tossed flavorful greens. Despite this moment of my own strange expectation, I enjoyed the dish as the chef intended. And I did actually enjoy it.

After waiting what felt like an eternity between courses and with a wine glass at empty, the Sofia pizza and pasta arrived. I had heard so many great things about what was to come and proving delicious looking to the eyes, my empty stomach was now well starved and my hopes were high with pure excitement to eat everything in sight.

The excitement dwindled after those first few bites, as I didn't feel anything more than just a satisfaction with the act of eating. The crust of the pizza was slightly tough but then in contrast over sauced in the middle leaving limp, unflattering slices which proved to be a challenge to pick up. It ultimately came down to a knife and fork show. The Carbonara was also nothing of grandeur as the dressing of the pasta was salted with a heavy hand. Perhaps even more disappointing were the dense noodles that seemed to lack any bite, making an already heavy dish feel even heavier. I didn't have an opportunity to comment or even wash it down with another glass of wine. I was however asked if I was interested in dessert after I had asked for a box to go. I didn't take the pasta with me.

Perhaps my hopes were too high, or maybe it was just an off night. I wished it to be better, and I also wished that we had more attentive service. With all this said, it wasn't a lost cause. I came hungry and I left full. The environment was charming, and I'd be open to trying it again. After all, often times an atmosphere can make more of the experience than the food itself. We can often wish it wasn't the case, but it's just the truth.

At the end of this story, I met Sofia and I would describe her as nice to know.

San Diego: BLAH and TIGER!TIGER! Nose to Tail Beer Pairing Dinner

Event: Nose to Tail Beer Pairing Dinner, April 29, 2013

Tiger! Tiger! 3025 El Cajon Blvd. San Diego CA 92104
www.tigertigertavern.com 

Blind Lady Ale House 3416 Adams Ave. San Diego, CA 92116
www.blindladyalehouse.com


I think I can still taste the savory pork lingering on my lips... It's been two days since I went head to head with the exquisite Berkshire pig who sacrificed his life for my gain. He was of a fine breed, that of which was marbled, juicy, tender, and delectably meaty. I guess I should say I went head to "nose to tail" with that pig, and he didn't stand a chance against me or many of the other 50 pork enthusiasts that came ready to fight for our lives and our arteries that evening. This battle that I speak of was the Nose to Tail dinner held at Tiger! Tiger! North Park this past Monday, April 29. The culinary teams of Chefs Todd Renner (BLAH) and Sharon Wilson (Tiger!Tiger!) collaborated with their beer brewing and pouring counterparts to present their first Nose to Tail beer dinner featuring 5 solid courses of swine each presented with a thoughtful beer pairing.

When I first caught glimpse of this event in my inbox, it took me all of 2 minutes to determine that I needed to be a part of this. Okay fine, for those that know me better I'll admit that they had me at "nose to tail", so I read on. Being rather familiar with the culinary stylings of both Blind Lady and Tiger! Tiger! I started to daydream about all the delicious things that would potentially come out of these kitchens as they celebrated the time-honored heritage pig. I knew that their menu would be down to earth, the ingredients would be locally seasonal, the flavors would be bold, the evening's sentiment would be light-hearted, and without a doubt there would be plenty of good beer to be had by all.

I wasn't disappointed. Upon a 15 minute fashionably late arrival (may I blame the accidental run in with the new Belching Beaver tasting room around the corner? Yes, they are now open), the set up was exactly as I had hoped. The restaurant looked as warm and inviting as always, but this time much to my delight the counters were lined with crunchy, lightly dusted Pork Cracklin's, tables were set and ready to host a feast, and an intimate sized crowd of happy, hungry, guests were all mentally preparing themselves and giddy in anticipation for what was to come. We were greeted immediately upon arrival with a friendly pint of Craftsman 1903 in hand which kicked off the 3 tray passed appetizers which technically embodied the first course.

First/Tray Pass Course (s) 
Sausage with Manchego served with Mustard: Sausage was good, but the herb mustard that came with it was out of this world.

Currywurst Corn Dogs with housemade Ketchup: Light, airy, with just enough curry to taste. I'll say it again though.. that mustard was out of this world. I wished I had saved some for my currywurst.

"Bruschetta" with Bacon: This menu item was the result of a last minute ingredient change up, a common and appreciated practice of all seasonal and market-dependent restaurants. It was supposed to be a BLT triangle but what they produced would kick that sad little BLT to the curb. This "bruschetta" was topped with fresh local avocado slices, thick slabs of deeply marinated and caramelized bacon, and tangerine supremes. Creamy, salty, and finished with acid. A perfect bite (or 2).

Beer: Craftsman 1903


With a welcome introduction from the culinary team, it was from there that the nose to tail battle begun as we firmly rooted down and took our positions for the next 4 hours of indulgence. Communal-style seating enhanced the evening and played a part in imparting a genuineness and honesty of character to this event to make it memorable. It wasn't just because of the generous 4 courses that were to come, but because of the sense of community and comaraderie that takes place organically when you put strangers and neighbors together at a table to share in a feast. This dining experience created a great precedent for what was to come from the first course to the last bite.

First Course
Head Cheese Terrine with Lemon Verbena: This was my favorite dish of the evening. The head cheese was rich in mouthfeel with a great proportion of meat to toothful collagen,while still maintaining a lightness in texture and seasoned with subtle hints of deep earthy anise and allspice. It was served with chewy, thinly prepared fried pig ear atop of a Suzie's Farm lettuce and radish salad. The salad was overdressed, but the main star made up for it, and the slightly oaky wheat beer was a great match. Note: I am a sinner to think of muddy-ing the water, but I did find myself wishing that I had more of that mustard from earlier to enjoy with this dish.

Beer: Automatic Sub Agrestic


Second Course
Wood-Fired Porchetta with Rosemary Agrodulce Mustarda with Lard Wood Fired Vegetables and Pigs Feet Baked Beans
The Porchetta was definitely the love child of a lot of labor and time. The pork loin had been slowly brined and stuffed with a variety of pungent mixed herbs and seasonings, then rolled in pork belly to be wood-fired and smoked for days using the same wood from the avocado farm that produced the "bruschetta" in the first course. The result was a juicy, intensely flavorful porchetta with a crisp, sweet, crackly skin that you could bite off like candy. The Brown Ale stood up nicely against the intensity of this course and rounded out the fat content.

Beer: Port Board Meeting Brown Ale

Third Course

Housemade Goat Cheese with Lardo: This was nice young fresh goat cheese with a mild tang that made it a good option as a palate cleanser. This dish was a good effort, however it did conjur a few questions of practicality as the thin layer of lardo didn't seem to enhance the dish in terms of texture, nor did the piece of nougatine brittle that was served as an accompaniment which was too soft to crack. The cider pairing also left the palate a bit flat, as the flavor nuances of the goat cheese and cider were too similar.

Beer: Tieton Apricot Cider

Final Course
Local Strawberry Pie with Lard and Butter Crust and Vanilla Gelato: A good, friendly and safe way to finish the meal, for those that made it this far. What got my attention for this dish was actually not the pie, but the Naughty Sauce beer that was paired with it. This undercover beer appears golden blonde in color, but greets you with a highly caffeinated and pleasantly surprising nose of sweet, dark roasted coffee. This milky golden stout is beyond intriguing.
Now I know where I'm going next time I need a pick-me-up (and it won't be the coffee shop.)

Beer: Noble Ale Works' Naughty Sauce

San Diego Review: Carnitas Snack Shack makes one happy little piggy.

Carnitas Snack Shack 2632 University Ave. San Diego, CA 92104
www.carnitassnackshack.com

What is brilliant about Carnitas Snack Shack is its unassuming appearance and a humble simplicity. You walk up, place your order, grab a bottle of local beer or a glass of wine, and kick back. Quite literally the little shack that could which stands on the near corner of University and Oregon Street in North Park, one could easily pass on by. That is, if it wasn't for the obvious line of food-crazed people waiting patiently up and down this street every day, making it unmistakable that something really good is happening here.

What IS happening here? Well, you would have to be living in a hole if you haven't at least heard about it. Chef/Owner Hannis Cavin is making splashes, waves, rip currents even with his pork loving snack shack concept here in San Diego. Often you will find pictures of him with his signature pork dishes, and even Carnitas-his inspiration and pet pig gracing the covers of most local magazines and websites. Him and his wife Sara opened Carnitas Snack Shack in 2011 and it quickly became a food lover's stomping ground.

If it isn't obvious yet, The Shack is all about swine. Their menu changes often and although you will find other mentionable non-pig menu items such as a killer house ground burger, hearty steak or housemade pastrami sandwiches, seasonal salads and sides, and even the occasional seafood special, as their name suggests they are in it for the pork. You will find carnitas on the menu in the form of carnitas tacos and tortas. It's good stuff, but their claim to fame lies evidently somewhere between their Triple Threat Sandwich and the Pork Belly App.

What makes their sandwich a triple threat? A combination of crunchy pork loin schnitzel, moist pulled pork, and crispy bacon all piled high with a generous slather of pepperoni relish and aioli on a fresh and perfectly toasted artisanal (and locally baked) bun: Now that's what. And then there's the Pork Belly App. As quite the fad menu item nowadays, you'll find pork belly on almost every menu across the nation, but pork belly lovers know that not all pork belly is created equal...and thankfully, The Shack does it right. Their version is a sweet, sticky, salty glazed slab of Duroc pork belly that has been slow cooked to perfection leaving a perfect ratio of fat to meat. It's meaty, it's fatty, it's slightly caramelized. They aren't shy with the portion either and while you fork your way into the first melt -in-your mouth tender bite, it will make you feel like you're doing something naughty. It's just that good. The App is also paired with a light salad of frisee, apples and paper thin sliced radishes which act as a nice palate cleanser, and of course helps alleviate any feeling of guilt now that you have had your side of veggies.

Pork Belly App. 

I purposefully made my most recent pilgrimage to the shack in order to sink my teeth into the limited-time-only "Eater San Diego Burger" which made a special appearance as a tribute to Eater National's celebrated Burger Week. It was a tough decision to steer away from the Triple Threat, but this carrot and pepper studded ground pork shoulder burger with sweet chili glazed pork belly, peppercorn aioli and fresh watercress on a pretzel bun called my name, and it didn't disappoint.

The Eater San Diego Burger complete with a side of Carnitas' corn salad.

So let's just say that you don't dig on swine. Vegetarians have no fear. There is a fantastic beet terrine stacked with goat cheese, layered with spinach and beautiful roasted and thinly sliced multicolored beets. Seasonal salads and the occasional vegetarian dish pop up on their specials board too.

And if after all this, you still need to finish it off with something sweet, you can get your fix with one of the locally made sweets which change out often and are featured on the small chalk board at the ordering window. Now you will want to do yourself a favor and plan out your whole meal carefully from drink to dessert the first time you hit the line, because unless you need time and an excuse to digest before dessert, you can bet this place isn't slowing down and you will be waiting at least 20 minutes in line for that cookie.